Effect of Patchouli Oil Concentration on Fragrance Longevity of Eau de Parfum

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Vol 3 No 1 (2026): Januari-Juni 2026
Diterbitkan: Jun 30, 2026

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Lina Lee
Faculty of Pharmacy, University 17 Agustus 1945 Jakarta, Indonesia

Abstrak

Background. Perfumes are cosmetic products which its quality determined not by scent, also by longevity when applied to skin. Patchouli oil is a natural fixative, an effect attributed to its low-volatility sesquiterpenes and patchouli alcohol. Research on its optimal concentration in Eau de Parfum (EDP) remains limited. This study aimed to determine the effect of patchouli oil concentration on fragrance longevity and the physicochemical characteristics of EDP. Method. This experimental study used a Completely Randomized Design with four formulas (F0 0%, F1 4%, F2 6%, and F3 7% patchouli oil) in a 96% ethanol base (total fragrance oil 8-15%), bergamot oil as top note and rose oil as the middle note. Evaluations included organoleptic testing, specific gravity, pH, fragrance longevity via blotter and skin application tests at 0-8 hour intervals by 25 panelists using 0-5 sensory intensity scale, analyzed with Levene's Test and One-Way ANOVA followed by Games-Howell test. Result. All formulas met to SNI 16-4949-1998 quality requirements, appearing as clear, homogeneous liquids, uniform specific gravity (0.782; p=0.642), pH 5-6. Aroma intensity decreased over time across all formulas, formula F3 (7% patchouli oil) showed the longest fragrance longevity at 8 hours (blotter score 2.60; skin score 2.20). One-Way ANOVA showed  highly significant effect of patchouli oil concentration on fragrance longevity (blotter: F=94.910; skin: F=117.532; both p<0.001) with large effect sizes (η² = 0.75 and 0.79 and the Games-Howell post hoc test confirmed all four formulas differed significantly from one another in both the blotter and skin tests (p<0.05), forming fully distinct, non-overlapping subsets. Increasing patchouli oil concentration also associated with stronger woody note and darker color. Conclusion. Among the concentrations tested, patchouli oil at 7% was the best-performing natural fixative in enhancing sensory-rated EDP fragrance longevity. Total fragrance oil increased, effect reflects the whole formulation; skin safety was not assessed.

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Lee, L. (2026). Effect of Patchouli Oil Concentration on Fragrance Longevity of Eau de Parfum. Medical : Jurnal Kesehatan Dan Kedokteran, 3(1), 158–170. https://doi.org/10.69836/medical-jkk.v3i1.989
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